Under Kronborg Castle, in Helsingør, Denmark are the casemates (protected gun positions in a vaulted chamber beneath a defensive wall).  In those casemates you will learn the Danish history of Holger Danske.  A legendary character who is said to rise up and protect Denmark when the country finds itself in danger.  It’s a great story and one that has prevailed for several centuries.  So much so that one of the largest resistance movements in Denmark during WWII was called Holger Danske.

Early on in the casemates, a statue of Holger Danske greets you.  It is an impressive statue and sets the tone.  The rest of the casemates though takes some exploring.  And you are free to explore nearly everything and everywhere.  Use your flashlight.  Not just to keep you from stumbling, but to read what is written on the walls.

Facts about Denmark, the Holger Danske legend, the WWII resistance line the walls of the casemates.  Not every wall.  That would be too easy.  And not nearly as fun.  Instead it becomes almost a sort of scavenger hunt as the flashlight guides you through Danish resistance history.

Be warned, it is dark down there.  It is damp down there.  It’s even a bit cold down there.  And having grown up with two brothers, I am well aware that there were plenty of places to hide to scare my siblings.  Keep that in mind if traveling with young children.  Aside from that, the casemates at Kronborg Castle are one of my favorite places to visit in Denmark and a great Helsingor sightseeing attraction.

If you plan to stay in Helsingor, you can find the best deals on hotels using the HotelsCombined price comparison site.

Underground Resistance at Kronborg Castle, Denmark

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.

Swedish pea soup by VirtualEm

That’s what makes dagens lunch (the day’s lunch) so great as a Swedish budget travel tip.  Every day, restaurants throughout Sweden offer a set menu for a very reasonable price.  It’s one of the few opportunities for cheap meals in Sweden.  It usually includes a salad, bread, a drink, the main course, as well as coffee.  But it’s Thursdays that stand out.  Because nearly every Thursday you’ll find pea soup and pancakes on the menu.

It sounds like a horrible combination. And let’s be honest, pea soup is not the most visually appealing thing you can eat.  Despite the initial reaction of many, pea soup and pancakes on Thursdays is amazing.  The split pea soup is filled with ham and most people add a dollop of mustard for a little extra kick.  It is a national staple in Sweden that has been dominating Thursday menus in Sweden for generations.

The pancakes end up being a very filling dessert to follow the already filling pea soup.  Covered in whipped cream, either fresh berries or a berry jelly, and maybe a little sugar if you’re feeling adventurous, it’s a filling, and delicious, lunch.

Swedish pancakes stuffed with blueberries by norwichnuts

It’s not just restaurants that serve pea soup and pancakes on Thursdays.  The Swedish military eats it every Thursday.  Schools serve it.  Even your average Swedish household will make pea soup and pancakes on Thursday.  I, due to my complete inability to make a Swedish pancake that is not too thick or too burned, do not eat pea soup and pancakes at home on Thursdays.

Next time you’re looking for a reasonably priced meal on a Thursday in Sweden (and who amongst us doesn’t do that on a regular basis?) be sure to find the nearest dagens lunch deal and order the pea soup with pancakes.  You won’t be disappointed.  You won’t be hungry for the rest of the day either.

If you haven’t made it to Sweden yet, make your own pea soup and pancakes this Thursday.  Enjoy!

Picture by VirtualErn

Pea Soup and Pancakes – A Budget Swedish Culinary Delight

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.

In the city of Gruyères, Switzerland sits one of those castles – the Château de Gruyères.

I went to Gruyères for a cheese festival.  Because eating cheese is one of the most obvious things to do in Gruyeres.  The rain dampened the hopes of a great cheese festival, luckily as we walked up to the city of Gruyères, the castle came into view.  And just like Amanda, it was worth it.

The Château de Gruyères makes a great day trip from Geneva.  Take the train from Geneva to the town, you’ll have to make a change onto a little local train that winds its way about half a kilometer or so from the city.  The remaining hike will lead you to the city.

The medieval city of Gruyères is situated in the foothills of the Alps.  Of course, the foothills of the Alps make some mountains pale in comparison.  The 13^th century castle sits atop a hill looming over the surrounding valley.  During the day, this Gruyeres attraction is impressive in its own right.  At night, it lights up like a movie scene.

Another interesting thing to do in Gruyeres is to visit the HR Giger Museum which displays science fiction artwork.

If you’re planning a trip to Gruyeres, find the best deals at hotels in Gruyeres using the HotelsCombined price comparison site.

The Château de Gruyères, Switzerland

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.

Despite the Shakespearian claim to fame, there is very little tourist gimmicks referencing Hamlet.  Considering the long history of the castle, the fact that it is on the UNESCO World Heritage List, and the well preserved artwork, furniture, and architecture, Hamlet can fall by the wayside.

Just across the water from Helsingborg, Sweden and Kärnan, Kronborg castle draws hundreds of thousands of visitors every year.  And with good reason.  The Renaissance castle is incredible and gives you access to several different areas, including the chapel, the bedrooms, a shipping museum, and even the roof.

Because of the different choices available, there are a myriad of ticket options.  To be perfectly honest, if you are short on time, skip the Maritime Museum.  Unless you’re a big maritime historian, the museum just gets to be a bit too detailed.  The Royal Apartments, the chapel, the rooftop, everything else is well worth a visit.

While wandering around one of the bedrooms, I was suckered into a guided tour.  And by suckered, I mean the tour guide was so very charming I couldn’t say no.  Plus it was free.  So I stuck around and listened and learned quite a bit.  Unfortunately, the tour was incredibly long.  While I enjoy educational and engaging tours, I was getting hungry and had not eaten lunch.  If you do plan on taking one of the free English language tours, be sure to plan ahead and grab a delicious Danish hot dog beforehand.

Click here to find the best deals on Helsingor hotels with the HotelsCombined price comparison site.

Shakespeare in Denmark – Kronborg Castle, Helsingor

Browse through our Europe travel tips to find the best places to visit in Europe. Content published on Europe a la Carte.

Until recently, I had never considered any sort of Irish heritage to be mine.  I stuck to the Swedish side. It was easier that way.  But on my recent trip to Ireland, I found myself sitting in the home of a small parish pastor looking at church records from the 1850s in an attempt to trace my ancestors in Ireland.

An incredible experience.  Even if it was all for naught.  My grandfather, my mother, and I based our search on a copy of an old marriage record.  It was an old copy. A difficult-to-read copy. So we attempted to decipher the 150 year old handwriting and made our best bet.

Off we went to a small Presbyterian church.  We though we struck gold when we found a gravestone with my grandfather’s last name. Clearly, we were in the right place.  But the dates didn’t really match up.  The first names of the deceased didn’t really match up.  And so we kept searching.

Which is how we ended up in the home of that small parish pastor in Tullyallen, Northern Ireland.  It is also how we ended up leafing through several books of church records finding nothing at all.  We walked away empty handed.  Kind of.

We learned quite a bit about the genealogical process.  We learned about the different types of churches.  We even learned what tully meant (which was helpful considering the number of place names using tully).  We learned that it never hurts to ask, because suddenly you might have a meeting with the parish pastor.  Most of all, we learned just how hospitable, just how helpful, just how friendly, people could be when out searching for family.

You can’t plan for hospitality when traveling in Europe. When picking those European destinations, nothing is guaranteed.  But if you do find yourself visiting Europe in search of old family history, enjoy the whole process.  Even if you don’t find exactly what you’re looking for.  You might still end up with a memory that becomes a part of your own family history.

If you are looking for family in Northern Ireland, start here: The Public Record Office of Northern Ireland.

Driving 2700 kilometers in nine days was a bit of a change for me.  Usually, when I travel, I walk.  Everywhere.  I spot church spires on the horizon and walk until I find them.  I walk to tourist sights.  To hostels.  To restaurants.  And I love it.

But this trip was different.  My grandfather met my mother and me in Ireland.  He is 80 years old and has a bit of a bad hip.  Despite still thinking it a good idea to carry refrigerators up from the basement on his own.  But that bad hip made this a different kind of trip.  Suddenly, I was road tripping through all of Ireland instead of hitting one or two cities.

It was an amazing experience.  We saw more in those nine days than I could have even dreamed of seeing normally.  We stopped on mountain passes and took in the view.  We saw signs written in English.  In English and Irish.  And just in Irish.  We drove from Dublin to Dingle to Derry.  We watched tour buses take up an entire country road.  We scraped rear view mirrors with cars passing by.  We saw the country from the highway.

Honestly, I was sceptical.  And honestly, I still prefer walking.  But it was an unforgettable experience and one of the best ways to see an incredible amount of country in just a short amount of time.  I saw things I never would have experienced if not in a car (like being charged by a wayward sheep).  So if you’re thinking of an Irish destination when Europe travel planning, give it a shot.  It’s not so bad driving on the left-hand side of the road.

But Visby to me is not a party destination; it’s a chance to see one of the best preserved medieval cities in Sweden. In fact, the entire city of Visby has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  With good reason.  Church ruins dot the cityscape, medieval houses can be found throughout the town center, and an intact wall circling the city dominates the view as you enter Visby.

If you’re hoping to avoid the crowds, try to visit this European city in the beginning of June.  Tourist season is slowly getting started and the town seems to have just the right mix of tourists and locals.  Of course, if you’re looking to experience medieval Visby, August is the time to visit.

Every August since 1984, Visby has celebrated a Medieval Week.  The churches and wall around the city suddenly become an integral part of the celebrations with music, dance, markets and tournaments.  There are even some lectures for those more inclined towards the academic side of things.

Visby, during the summer months, is one of the best places to visit in Europe. With its mix of history and culture with sun and beaches (and even some partying), the city comes alive and is a great summertime destination.

Duomo di Milano in Italy did just that.  For a variety of reasons.  The interior is spectacular in and of itself, claiming to be one of the largest cathedrals in the world.  The artwork hanging from the ceiling and the sculptures lining the walls are beautiful.  It is well worth a visit, especially considering it costs nothing to enter.

Despite the beauty of the interior, it was the exterior that caught my imagination.  More specifically, the roof.  Solely because I was able to climb to the top.  For five euros you can take the stairs or eight for the elevator to the top.  I took the stairs.  Once at the top, you can see much of Milan spread out before you.  It’s an impressive, if not necessarily beautiful sight.

What was beautiful were the numerous sculptures lining the roof top of the cathedral.  Hundreds of intricate sculptures of various saints stared back at me as I wandered around the roof.  The gleaming white façade gave it an almost surreal feel as the sun shone down on the various saints.

The European destination of Milan is usually associated with clubbing and high fashion.  And there is plenty of that to go around.  Shopping for Gucci can be done in most major cities, but when travel planning, the Duomo di Milano, and especially the roof, is an experience that can’t be duplicated.

Andy of the Europe a la Carte blogging team recommends these Milan attractions – the Last Supper painting, Michaelangelo’s unfinished Pieta Rondanini and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele shopping arcade for your Milan sightseeing.

With this in mind, I crossed over a barrier at the Cliffs of Moher that stated that crossing that barrier was probably not a good idea.  Mostly because you could die.

I did it anyway.  And even dragged my poor mother along with me.  We were not alone, in fact, if we had been alone, chances are I wouldn’t have done it.  Instead I acted the lemming, minus the actual jumping off the cliff part, and followed along.

There were a few questionable moments; luckily none of them involved my mother.  Or me for that matter.  The woman in front of us though was hiking around in high heeled shoes.  Which were clearly new judging by the price tag that could still be seen on the bottom of her shoes.  After several stumbles she finally took them off. Or the girl with the fancy camera that wanted to get just a little bit closer for her picture and scooted out on her butt, only to slip, sending my heart into my throat.  She caught herself and scrambled away from the edge.

Would I suggest doing what I did, probably not, but I’m a rules follower. And you’re not supposed to break that rule.  And seeing the close calls of people making not so smart decisions made it abundantly clear as to why that sign is there.

The views from the areas of the Cliffs of Moher which are not blocked off are amazing.  There are sheer drops in churning water.  There are birds nesting in the rock face directly below you.  There is a color to the water that can’t be described.  And you don’t need to cross any fences to see that.  So if you’re doing your European travel planning for Ireland sightseeing, head to the west coast of Ireland to see the Cliffs of Moher.  You don’t even need to break any rules to get a great picture.

You can read more of my adventures in Ireland in “Sheep herding on the Dingle Peninsula“.

There are plenty of ways to get to the palace from Stockholm, but the boat trip is by far the most scenic.  Boats leave from just in front of the Stockholm City Hall and cost about 160 SEK.  The trip lasts an hour and floats you through the islands of Lake Mälaren.  When the sun is shining, it is one of the most beautiful parts of Sweden, when the sun isn’t shining… well, then it’s not one of the most beautiful.  Luckily for us, the sun was bright and the weather warm.

Drottningholm Palace is the residence of the Swedish Royal family, despite this; areas of it are usually open to the public. Not this time.  Of course, that’s not much of a surprise considering the circumstances.  Instead, we wandered through the surrounding park in the sunshine, eventually making our way to the Chinese Pavilion.

We went in.  We shouldn’t have.  The building is supposed to be one of the best examples of rococo design with a Chinese influence in Europe.  That may be, but the building is worn down, there is little information and walking through the building takes about ten minutes. Plus, it will cost an adult 70 SEK to get in.

So when doing your European travel planning and visiting Stockholm, be sure to check out Drottningholm Palace.  Just save your money and skip the Chinese Pavilion.  You may also enjoy a visit to Ulriksdal Palace, located just north of Stockholm in Solna.